Wide Awake at Jaipur

Last weekend I was in Jaipur. Though the occasion was a visit down memory lane to Aditi’s college friend Sudarshana, who has just turned mother-in-law, I thought it would be an opportunity to drive up the much-touted Delhi-Jaipur highway.

Unlike in most other countries, journey on any highway in India is unpredictable. So the 250-odd-kilomtere distance took more than six hours while going, but just three hours while returning. The smooth, wide tars gave way to a 2-lane service road after the tollgate at Manesar. And to complete the chaos, huge 24-wheeler trucks vied for space with newly bought Skodas and Mercs, rickety Tata Sumos and tortoise-slow tractor trailers. The slow march continued till Kotputli. Starting at 7.30 in the morning, we reached Civil Lines at Jaipur famished and tired at around 2 PM.

I last visited Jaipur a little more than eight years ago. And this Rajasthan hub has changed a lot in the meantime. According to the Google map, I needed to cross the Tripolia Bazaar, Johari Bazaar and Jal Mahal to reach Civil Lines. In my memory, camel-carts, cycles and pedestrians made a chaotic procession at dusty Tripolia, while slush overflowed on the road by Jal Mahal. Miracle of miracles! The road bordering Amer fort, Jal Mahal is now at least 100 feet wide. I made up to Hawa Mahal at the speed of 80 kmph. Johari Bazar too is now wide and organised though the narrow old gates remind of the chaotic past. Quite a few high-rise malls dotted the roadside, while cars of all makes filled the roads. The traffic police must be hard-pressed here, because the oncoming of new cars didn’t mean old scooters and cycles going off the road. Driving in Jaipur is often the best test for patience.

A visit to the next-door cybercafé was also an eye-opener. Even before announcing the tariff, the proprietor asked for my identity-proof, and duly filed in the photocopy. The tariff was a reasonable Rs 15 per hour, and the download speed a zippy 2 Mbps!

I have always thought Amer fort and City palace are the only tourist attractions at Jaipur. Sudarshana’s husband Mahipal insisted on visiting the Jaigarh and Nahargarh forts. And now, I recommend them too. I found the mahals in Jaigarh more well-preserved and ornate than the ones in Amer fort, manicured gardens, and the view of Amer Fort and serpentine fort walls across the distant hills breathtaking. While the Madhavendra Palace at Nahargarh fort was bare and somewhat boringly symmetrical, the 360-degree view of the pink city atop the rampart was enthralling.

One and a half days in Jaipur, under the canopy of dark clouds and mild sunshine, display of the new richesse and pride of the old tradition, the languor of the lazy lifestyle - it was just not enough a recess.