Arunachal Pradesh has mostly been “The Forbidden State” for tourists. Now, the government plans to ease travel restrictions to this beautiful North-eastern state. However, if you want to move around freely in Arunachal, and enjoy your visit, strictly follow this advisory.
1. Every Indian resident needs an Inner Line Permit to enter Arunachal Pradesh; for foreigners, it’s a Protection Area Permit. The ILPs are issued by the issuing authorities of Government of Arunachal Pradesh with offices at Delhi, Kolkata, Tezpur, Guwahati, Shillong, Dibrugarh, Lakhimpur and Jorhat. You need to submit two passport-size photos, copy of residence proof and Rs 25. Foreigners can obtain the PAP from all Indian Missions abroad, all Foreigners Regional Registration Officers (FRRO) at Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata, Chief Immigration Officer, Chennai, Home Ministry, Govt. of India and Home Commissioner, Govt. of Arunachal Pradesh, Itanagar.
2. There is no rail service in Arunachal Pradesh, so be ready to spend a lot of time on the car (Arunachal is the largest of the North-eastern states). Hire a vehicle before entering Arunachal, and preferably get two drivers if you plan to cover much of the state. A Tata Sumo would cost Rs 1200 per day (plus fuel charge), a Bolero Rs 1800, and an Indica Rs 800. A 4-wheel drive Jeep is preferable for the Bhalukpong-Bomdila-Tawang-Dirang circuit,, since you have to cross mountain passes above 13,000 feet. Food and lodging of the driver/s is your responsibility.
3. There is a Helicopter service to the district headquarters/state capital. But it is a little irregular.
4. Carry chains or thick ropes to tie over the tyres, so that the vehicle doesn’t skid on hard ice at Sela Pass, Madhuri Lake or Indo-China border.
5. Carry emergency medicines for hypertension, stomach upset, fever and cold. If anyone feels altitude sickness, bring the person back immediately to the planes.
6. Fill up your tank and carry as much extra fuel as possible before entering Arunachal. Though petrol/diesel is cheaper in Arunachal, it is heavily adulterated with Kerosene oil in most of the pumps. If necessary, contact the Army or local PWD office to get clean fuel. Also, fuel is available only in major towns like Bomdila, Tawang, Zero, Daporijo, Along, Passighat, etc. No petrol pumps on the way.
7. Similarly, if your vehicle develops a snag, get it checked in a major town. You won’t get any repair shop on the way (which means a stretch of 150-200 km).
8. Try staying in Circuit Houses, PWD Inspection Bungalows and Forest Bungalows. Good hotels are available only at Bomdila, Dirang, Tawang, Passighat and Itanagar. Also, eat at Circuit Houses, because good restaurants are hard to come by.
9. Do your hotel/circuit house bookings much in advance. Send a fax giving details of dates, persons to stay and expected arrival time, even if you have received a confirmation over the phone. Book room/s also for the driver/s.
10. If you’re travelling in the winter, carry firewood. Some circuit houses have improvised fireplaces in the rooms, but no firewood. Room heaters are available only at Tawang.
11. Only BSNL provides mobile phone service in Arunachal, so your cellphone might remain dead during the entire journey. However, there are STD/ISD/PCO booths in all big towns. Cybercafes are available in Itanagar, Tawang, Bomdila and Along.
12. Ask the caretaker of the circuit house about local tourist attractions and taboos prevalent among the local tribes. Avoid going out of the hotel/circuit house at night.
13. Don’t try to whip up conversation or counter any person of the Nishi tribe. The situation may turn violent.
14. If you face any kind of trouble, contact the Deputy Commissioner’s office in the district headquarters.
Happy journey.
7 comments:
Quote:13. Don’t try to whip up conversation or counter any person of the Nishi tribe. The situation may turn violent.
Would you kindly elaborate on this point please? This sounds scary?I am planning AP tour soon.
A fellow traveller in Tawang gave me this advice. They got into trouble while photographing the Nishi people. You will meet the Nishis while going from Zero to Daporijo, and from there to Along. Nishis inhabit the Papum Pare, East Kameng and Lower Subansiri, Kurung Kume, parts of upper Subansiri districts of Arunachal Pradesh, as well as the Darrang District and North Lakhimpur district of Assam. They are very independent, proud people - proud of their race and tradition.
You’ll recognize people from Nishi tribe easily. Nishis plait their hair and tie it neatly at the forehead with Tibetan thread. A brass skewer passes horizontally through the tied hair. Cane rings are worn around the waist, arms and legs. Men wear a cane helmet surmounted with the beak of the Great Indian Hornbill.
We also faced the Nishis during our journey. While going to Daporijo, we stopped on the roadside to appreciate the scene of a forestfire. A ladyfriend was travelling with me, and there were two drivers. Beside the road was a hillock with a house on the top of it. Two Nishi ladies were standing near the house. They started passing comments: Why are you taking photos? Don’t take photos. What kind of fallen lady you are, travelling with three men?
They expected us to answer back. But we hastliy boarded the Jeep and drove away.
You won’t face this problem with any other tribe in Arunachal Pradesh. So don’t worry.
I feel Arunachal Pradesh is the most beautiful state in India.
Enjoy.
I happened to stay in the East(India) for almost 4 years and my fondest memories were revived whilst reading your article. As someone said of Kashmir, I say it for Shillong: the Scotland of the east,"If there is heaven on this earth, it is here, it is here"
Gurpreet Singh Badrain
Dear Atanu Roy,
My name is Alexander, I live in Moscow, Russia.
I intend to visit Arunachal Pradesh this October and I want
To know more about restrictions for foreigners.
Could you please answer some questions about Arunachal?
The main question is: if I have Protection Area Permit,
Will I be allowed to travel everywhere?
Or I must follow predefined routes only as it is stated
http://arunachalipr.gov.in/ILPForeign.htm ?
Thank you!
With best regards,
Alexander
Dear Alexander,
What has been put in the Arunachal Govt site is right. You can only visit the following routes with a Protected Area Permit.
1. Bhalukpong-Bomdila-Tawang
2. Tezu-Roing-Parashuram kund
3. Miao-Namdapha
4. Itanagar-Tezu-Daporijo-Along-Yingkiong-Pasighat
5. Tezu-Roing-Anini
However, do not despair. The routes have been chalked out not to keep you out of sendtitive areas, but simply because the rest of the areas do not have the required tourist infrastructure (proper roads, hotels, restaurants...).
Arunachal, according to me, is possibly the most beautiful state in India, even more beautiful than Kashmir. Its geography and populace is very diversified...while in Tawang and Bomdila you'll see high mountains, treacherous passes, beautiful monasteries, in Roing, Daporijo, Along, Yingkiong you'll see the lush green virgin forests and meet varied tribes, in Namdhapa you'll find the wildlife including snow leopards.
The only interesting place that I see missing in the route list is Ziro, which is the habitat of Apatani tribe, and by itself a beautiful hill station. But then it is near Daporijo. So if you speak to the Deputy Commissioner in Daporijo or Along you might get permission to stay in Ziro.
But ultimately, it all depends on how many days you have in your hands to visit Arunachal.
Happy journey. If you want any help, please write to me.
Atanu
Dear Atanu Roy,
I'd like to spend 40-45 days in Arunachal and visit
As many authentic places as possible. Also I intend
To raft down Subansiri river.
Could you please answer some questions important
for the trip organization:
Could you estimate flow of Upper Subansiri in November-December?
Is the river big at that time?
I also would like to make pedestrian trip through jungles to visit distant
Tribes and villages. One variant is pedestrian route for Subansiri east
To Brahmaputra – about 150km. Is it allowed for foreigner to do this with PAP
Or I must make some extra permits?
May be you can advise me where to get road atlas of Arunachal?
I've bought altas of NE India at Amazon.com, but there are only few
Roads at it and it is obvious that many mistakes. At Arunachal Govt site
I've found brand new information that 6 route have been added and
Now 11 route for foreigner are available. And one route is going
Through Mechuka. But I cannot understand where this route is going.
Also I think that Upper Syom river is interesting for rafting. But again
I cannot found road to there.
I will be very grateful to you if you find time to answer me.
With best regard,
Alex
Dear Alexander,
I didn't do rafting on Subanshiri, but on Jia bharali at Tipi/Bhalukpong. For doing rafting on Subanshiri, Syom or any other river in Arunachal, you have to get in touch with local adventure tourism association. There are a few at Itanagar, Tezpur and Guwahati. In Nov-Dec Subanshiri and Upper Syom would be very rapid, with huge flow.
About the permission to do pedestrian trips to tribal villages,please get in touch with Arunachal Pradesh Resident Commissioner's office in New Delhi, India. In fact they would be able to provide answers to all your questions.
Roadmaps would be difficult to get. But you can get very detailed data at www.censusindia.net. website.
Regards,
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